Ищу самоблокирующийся дифференциал

[nightbear]

Куплю самоблок в отличном состоянии. Пришел момент когда он стал действительно нужен. Есть какие-нибудь предложения?

[nightbear]

вообще ни у кого нет ни одного? цена прилично обсуждаема, так как со штатов он тыщ в 13 выходит.

[Yura335]

А тут выще их нет. Тащи от туда, и он тут стоит дороже чем 13)))

[KreySlider]

Yura335
Сам придумал, что он "тут стоит дороже 13"? =)

[BMWE21]

Мне, МЕ 262 редуктор с ушатанными в нем дисками за 10.ооо впарил а теперь ещё на эти диски 8-10 т.р надо

[nightbear]

всё, спасибо, тему можно закрывать. купил со штатов.

[Bes]

сколько вышел если не секрет?

[nightbear]

14500 за стакан от е30 узкого диффа.

[Bes]

мда, дороговато

[nightbear]

да, хорошо день рождения отмечал, хоть оправдание есть )

ну и надеюсь он с живыми фрикционами, по крайней мере там продавец серьезный был, да и машинка вроде свежая.

кстати, тут случайно нет темки по переборке дифференциалов? с номерами запчастей итп?

[Bes]

не встречал

[nightbear]

накопал кучу материалов про переборку дифференциала.... в шоке от сложности работ, думаю создам темку и буду фоткать сам процесс, так как сложность 5/5 и не рекомендована даже в домашних условиях.

[BMWE21]

выкладывай ато я собираюсь в тисках его собирать

[nightbear]

Расширение docx запрещено администратором.

посему вот.. ну и картинки в архиве..
сам 100% еще не вник, но уже присмотрел как где что заказывать итп, ну и то что надо разобраться с прикручиванием его к верстаку и замерять каким-то образом силу трения на вращение...

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adnthen ther's the problem of your ring & pinion gear teeth
alignment (you might be fuched!) but another photo from the repair manual show all the different gear teeth meshing patterns
and tells you what needs to be adjusted to correct for
proper teeth alignment. Not done properly and you have
a HOWLING diff wearing out gears in short time.

if your re assembling it with all the same shims in the same places
as original - and all your changing is the NEW CRUSH SPACER,
then you should be good as you can be - careful tightening
of the input nut crushing the new spacer - measuring the turning resistance.......... you should be alright

CD (spam man) Deesel actually DID give you the number-
it was just buried in amongst about 20000 other useless ones.

15- 29 inch- lbs.

That''s the free- turning torque of the preloaded pinion.
Here''s what you do- you tighten the nut carefully until all play is out of the pinion assembly, but it moves freely.
Then you measure it. Should be just a couple of inch- lbs for the seal.
Then you tighten about 10 degrees and measure again...
Probably 4 inch- lbs.
Then you tighten another 5, measure again.
Maybe 6. Then you tighten another 5, and discover you''re at 20.
If you''re unlucky you''re at 40, and get to take it all apart again and redo it.
It''s a really odd process, not unlike ''torque to yield'' head bolts- it feels wrong to be tightning that pinion nut like that, but once you do a few, you get a feel for what the pinion wants for preload- there''s a funny ''tight but free'' feeling to the bearings.

As to torque on the nut, it''s ''a fuckload''. No, a METRIC fuckload. I do it with a 24" breaker bar and a 36" bar on the flange, and, having done 2 in the last week, I have bruises on my chest from pulling the breaker with 2 hands and holding the flange bar against my chest.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness in this process- any grit in the bearings at all will ruin your hopes of getting an accurate number.

If you''re careful, you''ll be fine with this. The 2002 manual doesn''t have all the conditions that the 320 one does- and 2002 diffs, if anything, last longer than 320 ones do. Despite having smaller nose bearings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU
http://bmwfans.info/parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog ... SM_pg2.htm
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... fferential

Actually, IF you're using the stock gearset and housing, its quite straightforward. I just finished rebuilding mine and putting it back in the car last weekend. I could rebuild it in a few hours no problem.

The carrier is pretty simple. Take everything a part and lay it out in order paying attention to what face faces which way. There is a good writeup w/ pics on r3vlimited.com. I replaced the clutches w/ the ones from bimmerworld. Clean everything and rebuilt it like how it was w/ the new clutches. You should also flip the dogged washers that the clutches rub on to provide a fresh surface.

Note, its probably easier/smarter to replace the output bearings before you rebuild the carrier.

I got the output bearings off w/ a gear puller. All the races in the housing and tranny sides can be tapped out w/ a hammer and tap. Always tap the new races in by tapping the old race against the new one to prevent damaging the new race.

You'll need a press to press the pinion bearings on/off. There is a shim behind the inner bearing race. This is important and goes w/ your housing, don't forget it. Its what sets the pinion depth. Press the inner pinion bearing on and put it in the housing from the inside. don't forget the crush sleeve. Then you gotta sort of hold it as you start the outter bearing by tapping it. Then you'll need to press it on until it snugs up against the crush washer. Then you put the input flange on and the nut and slowly torque down on the nut to crush the crush sleeve until you get the correct drag torque and/or feel. spec is around 15-20inoz. I crushed the sleeve until i got around 16inoz of drag and an experienced friend agreed that it felt right. Note, you do this without the input seal first because the seal creates a lot of drag when new. So do this all to crush the washer, then take the nut and flange off, tap in the seal, and put the flange and nut back on.

Then you put the carrier in. Slap on the tranny sides (don't forget the shims) and you're rolling.

Really, its not hard and costs under $250 in parts for all new clutches, bearings, seals, etc.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=92714

i got it from searching around the internet and from a few experienced BMW ppl. All in that ball park, 15-25inoz. Mine felt good and tight at about 1inlb so we stopped there.

Thats the only spec i used and needed. Nothing else is critical. I used red locktite on the carrier top bolts which are pretty soft and don't need a whole lot of oompth. The only other bolts are the tranny sides and diff cover which arent critical.

btw, here is my parts list:


Pelican Parts

Part # Description Qty

23 21 1 490 120 securing plate 1 1.5 $1.50
33 10 1 214 099 shaft seal (pinion) 1 $9.75 $9.75
33-12-1-468-892 tapered roller bearing (pinion, superceded?) 1 $18.75 $18.75
33-12-1-468-893 tapered roller bearing (pinion) 1 $25.00 $25.00
33 12 1 744 368 clamping bush 1 $11.25 $11.25
33 10 7 505 602 shaft seal (output) 2 $7.50 $15.00
33 13 1 213 893 tapered roller bearing (output) 2 $17.25 $34.50
33 11 1 214 144 o-ring 2 $2.25 $4.50
33 13 1 207 280 lock ring 2 0.5 $1.00
33 11 1 210 405 diff cover gasket 1 $4.00 $4.00


bimmerworld

LSD clutch 2 $65 $130.00


Quote:
Yes to both.


Uh, let's be careful here…

To '… bolt on the gears from a 3.64 non LSD to change the gearing…' you'd also have to change the pinion gear (that's why you need the new crush sleeve Toby mentioned). If you try swapping ring gears of different ratios from one spool to another without changing the pinion gear, the result will be - well - crunchy.

And please use the proper liquid thread lock on ring gear bolts (the stuff you buy at an parts store is not rated for this application).
Quote:
You'll need a new crush sleeve, and it's not guaranteed that you
won't need to re- shim the side covers and pinion.


Also worth noting is that the ring and pinion gears are paired from the factory, and that there's a spacer behind the pinion bearing race which is matched to the set.
Quote:
I just picked up a E30 LSD and want to use my present 2002 3.64 gears, basically just swap the "pumpkins".


See notes above about paired sets, spacer, crush sleeve and shimming.
Quote:
How about putting the E30 (small case) LSD unit in the 2002 diff ? When I asked about it before, I was told that the 2002 case needed some clearancing for the E30 LSD unit to fit.


It's my recollection that both the E21 housing and the 2002 housing need to be clearanced to fit the E30 LSD spool, but perhaps Toby knows differently. Other parts can be clearanced for easier assembly. The type of side covers can also come into play. There's the cost/procedure of checking and replacing the bearings. And the clutch discs do wear - meaning what was a 25% when new may not hold that much torque now (which is the great unknown when buying used / junkyard LSD's).

- - -

In summary, other small case limited slip spools can be installed … but it's not a simple, 'bolt-in' process.

As Clay mentioned, Robert from RiDS is one of the best (his pricing reflects that). He's built some of the diff's I'm running, and they're great. I've got a guy here in SoCal (one of Robert's protégés) that's building me a new race diff with variable ramp angles (meaning it will vary between 20% and 60% lockup (for example), depending on load). Will report results after testing.